THE STORY ABOUT THE STYLES OF A SUIT

John
Oct 2, 2023
4 min read

Time to talk about the style of suits and suits. Perhaps many of you have followed a series of articles and photos shared about our clothes or the people Truespoke has met around the world. So, in this article the blog returns to the basic topic: what are the styles of suits? It's just a simple suit or suit, but if you consider bespoke an interesting thing, you should probably know about the styles that are massive and require delicate choices.

Previously, the style of a vest or suit depended on the region, the first factor being the weather. An Italian-style suit is always more fragile than an English-style suit, because the Mediterranean region is sunny and somewhat hotter than the cold, humid weather in the UK. In addition to the weather, it is a story about regional culture, as in Italy on the recent trip, it can be divided into many schools of suits such as Milanese, Florentine, Neapolitan... However, to this day when about The way people are shortened by means of transportation and also the world of information via the internet, suits with different methods are adjusted or mixed together and it seems that the boundaries of a fixed style become blurred. than. A suit can have a variety of structural and stylistic features, such as English structure combined with Italian beauty and beyond. But before talking about a series of combination formulas, basic knowledge is still something you need to know first before going to the variety of combination styles out there. In the first part, we will share with you about British and American styles.

Classic English style

England can be considered the cradle of European clothing and the style signature of an English suit is perhaps too popular all over the world. The English suit style often has a safe and somewhat conservative spirit, such an outfit often helps the wearer blend in with the crowd rather than stand out. With such thinking, an English-style suit is often suitable for work and is associated with basic options such as navy or gray. The spirit of true Britishness is conservatism, the British drape cut style has been kept the same for nearly a century, with the characteristic structure of thick shoulders and chest and a tightly cut waist. The British are also relatively clear in distinguishing between types of shirts, from British-style suits there are also sport jackets and blazers, which is characterized by a variety of colors and patterns for the British occasion of horseback riding or cycling (in ancient times). The only thing I can share more about is the British choice in material which is always tweed or flannel.

Characteristics: Shirts usually have a fairly thick structure, typically the shoulder area has quite obvious padding and the chest area looks quite full with a lot of space to move. At the same time, the shirt has a tighter waist cut to create an hourglass effect. On the other hand, the shirt usually has 2 slits at the back.

Famous names: Gieves & Hawkes, Anderson & Sheppard, Norton & Sons, Huntsman, Steed, Edward Sexton. Most are pure bespoke brands (especially Huntsman is the most expensive)

Modern British style

Modern English style appeared when the playing field expanded to include younger people, who were interested in European formality and influenced by the spirit of dressing to be sophisticated and dynamic. Especially in a time when people no longer wear suits only in jobs that require formality, but also in every day-to-day occasion.

Features: Using all the features of the traditional English style but with a slimmer structure and a tighter fit. For example, the shoulders are thinly padded, the shirt is shorter and the pants are tighter. Especially after the recent trip and talking with some professionals, the modern style is often characterized by the sleeves meeting the shoulder slightly, not flowing down the shoulder like the classic style. If you want to easily distinguish the classic and modern styles, you can look at the chest area and you will see that the modern English style is much thinner and lighter.

Brand: Thom Sweeney, Richard James and several other MTM, RTW brands in London.

American Style – American Style

There is no denying the characteristics of American style, the image of classic suits that are associated with the stars of many famous Hollywood movies. With a somewhat boxy, spacious and comfortable style. The American-style shirt also has its own unique characteristics: the front has no waistline, and the shoulders are often rounded with thinner padding than the English style. Lapel line and low collar (in English called Gorge line). Shirts often look quite loose and loose, true to Americans' preference for comfort.

Familiar names: Luckily, we haven't seen any names that really click. But brands like Brooks Brothers, Ralph Lauren and Paul Stuart can be called signature.