A STORY ABOUT THE STYLES OF A SUIT – PART 2

John
Oct 2, 2023
3 min read

In the past 10 years, the world has probably been crazy about Italian style. A style that looks familiar, full of strange principles and breaks the rules of traditional English style. An Italian suit always carries with it the romantic, rustic yet sophisticated quality of the Italian people. On the other hand, stretching from Lombardia through Lazio to Sicily has its own unique characteristics in lifestyle and dress. Like Napoli's Neapolitan style, which is famous for its special softness.

After the first period with the British-American style, we will go to a wonderful and strange land. As a place with extremely large and massive regional characteristics, you can travel to Italy all your life without ending it. Italians are good at beauty, art, and we must mention cuisine and coffee. As I talked to a blogger on the italo train from Naples to Florence: “Being Italian is a full-time job.” First, I will mention the most common Italian style that people know as Neapolitan, this is a style originating from Naples or in English, Naples (you may search for Pizza because the cakes here are also famous). .

Italian - Neapolitan style

Neapolitan style is widely known today because most big bloggers like to wear it, it helps the wearer look sophisticated and stylish while still being full of liberal intimacy. The neapolitan image with a colorful jacket, bright pants and loafers with a pile of bracelets is perhaps a bit exaggerated (it is still typical of this style). However, on the streets themselves, people dress in a more simple and classic way. In fact, this new style of tailoring began in the early 20th century and was strongly influenced by the English style, with the Italian name Stile Inglese. Initially, people still preferred this shirt's sturdy shoulder style compared to today's soft shoulder style. Who invented the thin shirt of the present time, perhaps no one knows exactly. but many believe that the person who made the biggest impact was probably Vincenzo Attolini. Before creating it, Attolini had time to make and was influenced by Italian tailor Caraceni for a shirt with fragility, after which he invented the special soft structure we see today.

Characteristics of the shirt: The first characteristic of a neapolitan shirt is softness. Softness here is not just the cut but must be the softness when holding the shirt, wearing it or rolling it up. The shoulder technique is divided into two characteristics: Con Rollino style and Spalla Camicia style, of which the shirt style (Spalla Camicia) is the most popular. The Con Rollino style will often make the top of the shoulder roll up and look quite similar to the dragon's shoulder, however both of these styles are characterized by a slight undulation at the top of the shoulder. The lapel and collar assembly points are often placed higher than normal, in addition there is a boat-shaped chest pocket and the body buttons are made in a 3-button style. This style means the shirt is still a 2-button shirt but has a third button. located above the lapel and you can re-fasten it.

Typical names: Cesare Attolini, Isaia, Kiton, Rubbinacci, Edesim, Dalcuore...

Italian style - Florentine.

Hoi An of Italy, characterized by style full of elegance without having to hug the figure. It is necessary to return to a small story about the city where this style was born. That is Florence, a city famous for its art and culture throughout its history. The capital of Tuscany (also known as Tuscany) is famous for its craftsmanship in all aspects such as leather goods or even tailoring. If you have the opportunity to come to Florence, take the time to visit the leather goods academy, Stefano Bemer showroom (where countless famous shoe artisans are produced) and suits, Liverano & Liverano must be mentioned.

Characteristics of Florentine style: The shoulders are cut wide and a little extra, combined with a soft structure to make the shirt have a slight hollow. The waistband of the front body is omitted, combined with the lower body area below the body button being deepened to open up more.

Characteristic names: Liverano Liverano, Francesco Guida.